Glenmorangie 14 Year Port Quinta Ruban

Glenmorangie 14 Year Port Quinta Ruban is a Scotch whisky whose name tells you how it was built: a 14-year age statement, then a finish in port wine casks. "Quinta Ruban" refers to ruby port, so expect the usual malt backbone of cereal sweetness, honey and vanilla from ex-bourbon oak, with a fruit-driven layer from the port wood. Whiskies finished this way typically show dark berry, red plum, orange peel and cocoa, with a little spice and a soft, slightly nutty finish. The port influence tends to add richness and a touch of dried fruit rather than smoke, so don't buy it expecting a peated dram. Neat is the best place to start. Pour a measure into a Glencairn glass and give it a few minutes before the first sip. The tulip shape concentrates the fruit and oak aromas, and a short rest lets the sharper alcohol notes settle. If the nose feels tight or the spice reads hot, add a few drops of room-temperature water. That generally opens up the berry and chocolate notes in port-finished malts. Ice is a reasonable choice for a warm evening, but use one large cube in a rocks glass. It chills slowly and keeps the dilution mild, so the fruit isn't flattened. Crushed or small cubes will mute it quickly. In cocktails, this isn't the bottle for a bold, smoky or high-proof recipe, but it suits drinks that benefit from fruit and a gentle sweetness. A Rob Roy, the Scotch Manhattan, is the strongest fit. Use sweet vermouth and a dash of aromatic bitters, and the port character will echo the vermouth's dark fruit. An Old Fashioned made with a small spoonful of demerara syrup and orange bitters, finished with an orange peel, brings out the citrus-and-cocoa side. For a Highball, use two parts soda to one part whisky over plenty of ice, with a lemon or orange twist. It stays light and fruit-forward. In a Whisky Sour, keep the lemon modest so the port notes aren't buried. For food, dark chocolate, roasted nuts, aged cheddar or blue cheese, and fruit desserts such as berry tarts or poached pears all go well with the wine-cask sweetness. Serve it at cool room temperature, and use the rocks glass for casual sipping and the Glencairn when you want to pick out the finish.