Bertani 2021 Valpoli Ripasso

Bertani 2021 Valpoli Ripasso is listed as an Italian red, and the ripasso name points to a particular method. Wine is fermented, then re-passed over the pressed skins of a dried-grape wine to pick up extra colour, body and spice. Styles like this usually sit between a light Valpolicella and a full Amarone. Expect dark cherry and plum, a touch of dried fruit or raisin, and savoury notes of baking spice, leather or cocoa. The body is typically medium to full, with fine-grained tannin and the bright acidity that keeps Veneto-style reds fresh. Oak is usually restrained, giving a little spice rather than overt vanilla, and the finish tends to run moderately long with a faintly bitter-cherry edge. That acidity makes it a good table wine. It suits tomato-based dishes such as lasagne, meat ragù over pappardelle, or baked pasta with sausage. It also works with roast pork or chicken, braised beef, mushroom risotto, and mature cheeses like Grana Padano or aged Asiago. It can hold its own against grilled sausages and burgers, but it will overpower delicate fish. Serve it slightly cool, around 16 to 18°C (60 to 65°F). Twenty minutes in the fridge before opening is usually enough on a warm day. A short decant of 30 to 45 minutes, or simply opening the bottle ahead of time, tends to soften the tannins and open up the fruit. A medium-sized red wine glass with a moderately wide bowl lets the aromas gather without exaggerating the alcohol. Ripasso is generally a wine to drink within a few years of release rather than one to cellar for decades. A 2021 should be approachable now, particularly with food. A few more years of bottle age may add some softness and savoury complexity if stored somewhere cool, dark and steady, but there's no need to hold it back.