90 Plus Orange Wine

90 Plus Orange Wine is a skin-contact white from Massachusetts, made under the Esplanda label. Orange wine is white wine fermented with the grape skins, which is where the amber-to-copper color comes from. The label doesn't list the grape, vintage or alcohol level, so what follows describes the style and what to expect from it, not measured numbers for this bottle. Wines like this usually show dried apricot, orange peel, tea leaf and sometimes a honeyed or nutty note. They have more grip than a typical white, a light tannic dryness from the skin contact that sits somewhere between a white and a light red. Expect medium to fuller body, moderate to bright acidity, and a finish that is slightly bitter and savory, in the way citrus pith or black tea is. Serve it cooler than you would a red but not ice-cold. About 52 to 58°F (11 to 14°C) is a good range, and 45 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator is usually enough. Fridge temperature mutes the aromatics and exaggerates the tannin. Skin-contact whites often open up with a short rest in the glass or a brief pour into a decanter. If the first pour seems tight or slightly funky, give it 15 to 20 minutes to settle. Use a medium white-wine glass or a universal glass with a bowl wide enough to let the aromas gather. A narrow flute will flatten them. At the table, the tannin and savory edge make this wine more flexible than most whites. It suits dishes that usually trouble white wine: roasted carrots or squash with tahini, grilled halloumi, Moroccan-spiced chicken, lamb kofta, kimchi-forward dishes and mushroom-heavy pastas. It also works with New England seafood that has some weight, such as grilled swordfish, fried clams with a squeeze of lemon, or a baked fish with olives and preserved lemon. Very delicate raw shellfish and sweet desserts are the pairings to avoid. Treat this as a bottle to drink soon after purchase. Wines in this style are made for their fresh, textured character, and the label gives no reason to hold it for years. Store it upright or on its side in a cool, dark place until you chill it.