Blue Stilton

Blue Stilton is a blue-veined cow's-milk cheese, and the name carries a protected designation in England, which limits production to Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire. Expect a crumbly-to-creamy interior with blue-green veining, a savory, peppery bite, and a long, mineral finish. Styles like this usually have a rind that is rough, brown and edible, but often too earthy to enjoy on its own. Saltiness and sharpness vary from wedge to wedge, so taste a small piece before building a board around it. Serve it at cool room temperature. Take it out of the fridge 30 to 45 minutes before serving, because a cold blue tastes muted and chalky. Cut wedges so each piece has some veined interior and some paste near the rind, and use a separate knife so the blue mold doesn't transfer to milder cheeses. A cheese plate or a small slate board works fine and needs no special glassware, but pick the glass for the drink you pour with it. The classic partner is port. A ruby or tawny port has enough sweetness and weight to balance the salt and tang, and a small tulip-shaped or port glass keeps the aroma concentrated. Sweet wines such as Sauternes or late-harvest whites do the same job with a honeyed, lighter touch. For something drier, try a bold red with ripe fruit, or a stout or porter in a tulip or pint glass, where roasted malt echoes the savory depth of the cheese. A barrel-aged whisky served neat in a small tumbler can also work, though it suits those who like a strong flavor clash. For food, drizzle it with honey or spread it with fig or quince paste. Pears, apples, walnuts and toasted pecans are all reliable, and plain crackers or oatcakes let the cheese carry the flavor. In the kitchen it crumbles well over a steak, melts into a pan sauce, or goes into a walnut and pear salad where its sharpness cuts through the sweetness. Wrap leftovers in wax or parchment paper rather than tight plastic so the cheese can breathe.