Cerbois Armagnac

Cerbois Armagnac is a grape brandy from Gascony in southwest France, not a whiskey, even though it sits in the whiskey aisle. That changes how to approach the bottle. Armagnac is distilled from wine, usually in a column still, and aged in oak. Styles like this typically show dried fruit such as prune, apricot and raisin, with baking spice, toasted oak, caramel and sometimes a floral or nutty note. They tend to be rounder and fruitier than most bourbon or rye, with less char and grain. The bottle's age statement and strength weren't supplied, so check the label before settling on a serving method. For sipping, pour a small measure neat at room temperature. Let it sit a minute or two so the aromas open, and expect the fruit and oak to come through more clearly than the alcohol. A few drops of room-temperature water can soften the edges and bring out the spice. Ice mutes the aroma, so if you use it, make it one large cube and keep it brief. A Glencairn or tulip-shaped glass concentrates the nose and suits slow, careful tasting. A short rocks glass suits a relaxed pour or a drink with ice. Armagnac also works well in cocktails that usually call for whiskey or cognac. An Old Fashioned made with it, using a sugar cube, Angostura bitters and an orange peel, comes out softer and more fruit-driven than the rye or bourbon version. In a Manhattan, swap it in for rye and pair it with sweet vermouth for a smoother, plummy result. It is also a natural choice for a Sidecar with lemon juice and orange liqueur, or a Brandy Sour. For a long drink, a highball with chilled soda water or ginger beer and a lemon twist keeps the fruit and oak noticeable without much sweetness. At the table, Armagnac suits dark chocolate, roasted nuts, aged cheeses, baked apples and pears, and prune or fig desserts.