Fugue De Nenin

Fugue De Nenin is a 750ml Chardonnay from Massachusetts, bottled under the Esplanda name. New England sits at the cool end of the range for Chardonnay, so expect a leaner, more acid-driven wine than the broad, ripe style common in warmer regions. Wines from cool climates like this usually show orchard fruit such as green apple, pear and lemon zest, sometimes with a saline or stony edge. Chardonnay is a dry white with no tannin to speak of. Any weight on the palate comes from the fruit, the lees and the winemaker's choices. The details supplied here don't say whether the wine saw oak or malolactic fermentation. If it did, expect a rounder texture with notes of toast, butter or vanilla. If it didn't, expect a brighter, cleaner profile. The finish in this style tends to be medium in length and refreshing rather than heavy. Chardonnay at this weight pairs best with food that has some richness for the acidity to cut through. Roast chicken with pan juices, seared scallops, lobster or crab with drawn butter, and New England clam chowder all suit it. So do creamy pastas and soft cheeses such as brie or young Gouda. If the bottle turns out to be more crisply fruited, it also handles oysters, baked haddock and a plain green salad with a lemon vinaigrette. Avoid heavily spiced or very sweet sauces, which will flatten the fruit. Serve it chilled but not icy, ideally around 48 to 54°F, which is about an hour in the refrigerator, then a few minutes on the counter. Straight from a very cold fridge, the aromatics stay muted. Decanting isn't necessary, though if the wine seems tight on opening, a short rest in the glass will help. A white wine glass with a moderately wide bowl and a slightly tapered rim lets the aromas gather and keeps the acidity in focus. Wines like this are generally made to be opened soon after purchase. Plan to drink it within a year or two rather than cellaring it, since a cool-climate Chardonnay of unstated vintage is unlikely to reward long aging. Once opened, recork it and keep it in the refrigerator for up to three days.