Nonino Grappa

Grappa is a spirit distilled from pomace, the skins, seeds and stems left after grapes are pressed for wine. That gives it a character quite different from cognac or other grape brandies, which start from wine. The listing doesn't specify grape variety, age or bottling strength, so treat what follows as typical of the category, not a measured profile of this bottle. Unaged grappa is usually clear with a vivid, grapey aroma, often with citrus peel, crushed almond and a faint bitter edge. Barrel-rested versions turn amber and add vanilla and baking-spice notes. Check the label for which style this is. For sipping neat, use a small tulip-shaped glass, not a wide snifter. The narrower bowl concentrates the aroma and keeps the alcohol vapor from overwhelming it. Serving temperature depends on the style. Unaged grappas are generally best lightly cool, around 10 to 12°C, which softens the heat and keeps the fruit clear. Aged versions are better closer to cellar temperature, around 16 to 18°C, so the wood notes can open up. Pour a small measure of 30 to 40 ml, and let it sit for a minute before the first sip. In mixed drinks, a clean, unaged grappa works as a stand-in for pisco or white brandy in a Sidecar-style sour. Shake it with lemon juice and orange liqueur, and use a little less sweetener, because the spirit's pomace bitterness balances the citrus well. A barrel-rested bottle can replace cognac in a Sazerac, where it takes on bitters and a sugar cube cleanly. A Brandy Alexander suits it less, since the cream and chocolate liqueur will cover its more delicate aromatics. At the table, grappa is traditionally a digestif. It follows a rich meal well, especially aged cheeses, dark chocolate, roasted nuts or a plain espresso. A common Italian habit is to pour a splash into the last of the coffee.