Hwayo 23 Soju

Hwayo 23 is a soju, the clear Korean-style spirit usually made from grains or starches, and it sits at the drier, cleaner end of the sweetness spectrum despite being shelved with liqueurs. The "23" in the name most likely points to its strength, which would put it noticeably above the mid-teens bottles common in Korean grocery aisles. Check the label for the exact ABV. Expect a clear, neutral-leaning spirit with a faint grain sweetness and a smooth, soft texture rather than the sharp ethanol bite of a vodka at similar strength. Many soju in this style finish with a light, slightly sweet note, but it should not taste sugary or syrupy the way a true cordial does. The traditional way to drink it is neat and well chilled. Keep the bottle in the fridge or freezer and pour into small shot glasses or little ceramic cups, sipped slowly alongside a meal. Higher-strength soju like this holds up well to food with bold flavors. Korean barbecue, fried chicken, spicy stews, kimchi pancakes and grilled or raw seafood are the classic matches, because the clean finish resets the palate between bites. It also works with salty snacks, dumplings and fried appetizers. As a mixer, it behaves like a gentler, slightly rounder vodka. Pour it over ice in a tall glass and top with club soda and a squeeze of lime or yuzu for a light highball. It also fits in place of vodka in a Collins-style drink, a cucumber or citrus cooler, or a spritz with grapefruit soda. It makes a good base for fruit-forward cocktails, since it will not fight the flavor of fresh melon, peach, lychee or ginger. For a simple long drink, start at roughly one part soju to three parts mixer and adjust to taste. Because it is already smooth, it does not need much sweetener, so go easy on syrups.