Italo Cescon Pinot Grigio

This Pinot Grigio carries a Massachusetts appellation, which is an unusual origin for the grape. Pinot Grigio is better known from northern Italy, and New England's cool, maritime growing conditions tend to favor white varieties that keep their acidity. The details on file don't include a vintage, alcohol level or official tasting notes, so what follows describes what Pinot Grigio in this style typically offers, not a measured profile of this bottle. Expect a dry, light-to-medium-bodied white with restrained aromatics: pear, green apple and citrus peel are the usual reference points, sometimes with a faint note of melon or white blossom. Pinot Grigio made in stainless steel, as most examples are, has no noticeable oak influence and no tannin to speak of. The structure comes from acidity, which keeps the palate clean and gives a short-to-medium finish, often with a light mineral or almond-skin edge. It is a wine for drinking young, so buy it for the next few months and not for the cellar. Serve it well chilled, around 7 to 10°C (45 to 50°F), which keeps the acidity bright and stops the delicate fruit from going flat. Cooler than that can mute the aroma, so take it out of the fridge a few minutes before pouring. It doesn't need decanting. A standard white wine glass with a moderately narrow bowl is enough to gather the aromas without letting them fade. At the table, the high acidity and low weight suit raw and lightly cooked seafood: oysters, steamed clams, fried calamari, or a simple piece of baked haddock or cod with lemon. It also works with light pasta dishes built on olive oil, garlic or fresh herbs, with salads that have a citrus vinaigrette, and with soft, mild cheeses such as fresh mozzarella or ricotta. Heavily spiced or cream-rich dishes will overwhelm it, so keep it for food that lets its crispness do the work.