Man Pinotage

Man Pinotage is a red wine from Esplanda, labeled Massachusetts, made from Pinotage. That grape is a 1925 crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, best known from South Africa. Pinotage has a recognizable profile, so what follows describes what the variety usually delivers rather than a lab-measured profile of this bottle. Expect dark fruit such as blackberry, plum and black cherry, often with a smoky or earthy edge. Some examples add a touch of banana-peel or red-licorice character, or a hint of tar. Bodies run medium to full, with fairly firm tannin and moderate to bright acidity that keeps the fruit from feeling heavy. How much oak shows depends on the winemaker. Where it's used, it tends to add toast, vanilla or char that suits the grape's smoky side. The finish is usually dry and moderately long. That smoky, savory-sweet character is why Pinotage does well with food from the grill. Barbecued ribs, lamb chops, spiced sausages and burgers with a charred crust are all natural matches, as are sticky or lightly sweet glazes. Dishes with some spice also work, such as chili, Moroccan-style lamb tagine or jerk chicken. For vegetarian plates, try grilled portobello, smoked eggplant or lentil stew. Hard, aged cheeses like Gouda or cheddar can also stand up to the tannin. Very delicate fish or light salads will be overwhelmed. For serving, aim for roughly 60 to 65°F. About 20 minutes in the refrigerator before opening usually gets a room-temperature bottle there. If the wine seems tight or the tannins feel grippy when first poured, 30 to 45 minutes in a decanter, or simply in a wide glass, will soften it and open the fruit. A large-bowled red wine glass, similar to a Bordeaux or all-purpose red glass, gives the aromatics room to develop. Unless the producer indicates otherwise, treat this as a bottle to drink over the next few years rather than one to cellar long term. Pinotage is generally enjoyed for its fruit and smoke while it is still fairly young.