Marnaveli Saperavi

Marnaveli Saperavi is a red wine made from Saperavi, the dark-skinned grape long associated with Georgia in the Caucasus, here bottled under the Esplanda label from Massachusetts. Saperavi is a teinturier variety, meaning the pulp as well as the skin is deeply pigmented, so wines from it usually pour opaque, with a purple-black core. Because it holds acidity well and tolerates cold winters, it suits New England growing conditions better than many red grapes. The details supplied for this bottle don't include vintage, alcohol level or oak treatment, so what follows describes how Saperavi typically behaves. Expect a full-flavored red built around blackberry, black cherry and plum, often with a darker thread of pomegranate, dried herbs or black pepper. The grape's hallmark is the combination of firm tannin and bright, mouth-watering acidity. That gives the wine grip and lift where many dark reds are plush and soft. If the winemaker used oak, a note of cedar or toasted spice would be normal, but the details here don't say, so treat that as an open question. The finish in this style tends to be long and tart-fruited, with tannin that lingers on the gums. That structure points the wine toward fatty, savory food. Grilled lamb, beef short ribs, venison sausage and burgers with sharp cheddar all give the tannin something to work against. Georgian dishes are the natural match, such as walnut-and-pomegranate sauces, grilled meats with adjika, khachapuri and kebabs. Mushroom stews, aged hard cheeses and tomato-braised dishes also suit the acidity. Delicate fish and mild cream sauces would be flattened by it. Serve it at about 60 to 65°F, which is cellar temperature, a little cooler than a warm room. Chilling it lightly for 15 to 20 minutes tames the tannin and keeps the fruit fresh. Pouring the wine into a decanter or leaving the open bottle for 30 to 60 minutes before serving softens the grip and brings out the aromatics, and it's worth doing if the wine tastes tight on first pour. Use a large-bowled red wine glass, such as a Bordeaux or universal shape, so the dark fruit and spice have room to open up. Wines of this type are generally enjoyable on release, especially with food, though Saperavi's acidity and tannin mean a bottle can also soften in the cellar over several years. No aging potential is stated for this bottling, so for a first bottle, drink it now with a decant and a hearty plate, and keep a second to see how it changes.