Marnaveli Saperavi Red Oak

Marnaveli Saperavi Red Oak is a red blend from Massachusetts, and its name points to Saperavi as the lead grape and to oak treatment. Saperavi is a Georgian variety, one of the few red grapes with red flesh as well as red skins. Wines built on it are usually inky purple, with blackberry, black plum and dark cherry fruit, and often a savory edge of black pepper, pomegranate or dried herbs. Expect a medium-full to full body, firm tannins and bright, mouth-watering acidity. Acidity that high is unusual in a dark red, and it keeps the weight from feeling heavy. The bottle gives no vintage, blend percentages or oak regimen. If oak shows, expect it as light vanilla, toasted spice or cedar behind the fruit, and a finish that is moderately long and grippy rather than soft. Saperavi's acidity and tannin want food with fat and salt. Grilled lamb, beef short ribs, smoked sausages and roasted duck all work, as do mushroom dishes and aged hard cheeses. A Georgian-style table of walnut-spiced eggplant, grilled meat skewers and cheese-filled bread suits it well. Tomato-based braises and barbecue also handle the acidity. Delicate fish and creamy mild sauces will be overpowered. Serve it at about 60 to 65°F, which is cool cellar temperature. Straight room temperature tends to push alcohol forward and flatten the fruit. If the tannins seem tight after opening, pour it into a decanter 30 to 45 minutes before dinner, or give it time in a wide-bowled glass. A large Bordeaux-style glass or a standard red wine glass gives the dark fruit room to open up and tames the grip a little. Because the label gives no vintage or aging information, treat it as a bottle to drink over the next few years instead of cellaring it for long. Saperavi as a grape does hold up well with age, but this particular wine's structure is unknown. If you want to see how it develops, open one bottle now and keep another for comparison. Store bottles on their side in a cool, dark spot either way.