Underwood Pinot Gris

Underwood's Pinot Gris comes from Oregon's Willamette Valley and is labeled at 13% alcohol by volume, which fits the medium-bodied, fruit-forward style the valley is known for with this grape. Oregon Pinot Gris is usually made in a fresh, dry style, and bottles like this typically show pear, green apple and white peach, sometimes with a touch of melon, citrus peel or white blossom. Expect a rounded but not heavy texture and moderate acidity that keeps the finish crisp. There is no tannin in a white wine like this, and oak is typically absent or minimal, so the character stays on the fruit rather than on toast or vanilla. At the table, this style suits dishes that call for freshness without much weight. Pan-seared salmon, roast chicken with herbs, grilled shrimp, mussels in white wine and butter, and Dungeness crab are all natural matches. It also handles Thai and Vietnamese dishes, where a bit of spice and lime benefit from a fruity white with some body. Soft cheeses such as brie or fresh chèvre, and salads with pears or apples, bring out the orchard-fruit side of the wine. Heavily smoked or very rich cream-based dishes will tend to overwhelm it. Serve it cold but not ice-cold, at about 45 to 50°F (7 to 10°C). Roughly two hours in the refrigerator, or 30 minutes in an ice bath, gets it there. Over-chilling mutes the aromatics, and a few minutes in the glass will open them back up. It does not need decanting. A standard white wine glass with a moderately narrow rim works well, since it concentrates the fruit aromas without letting the wine warm too quickly. This is a drink-now bottle. Pinot Gris of this kind is built for freshness, and most of its appeal comes from youthful fruit and acidity rather than development in the cellar. Within a year or two of purchase is the sensible window, and it is best kept in a cool, dark place until it goes into the refrigerator.