J Vineyards Pinot Noir

J Vineyards' California Pinot Noir carries a 14.3% ABV, which places it toward the riper, fuller end of the grape's range rather than the lean, high-acid style associated with the coolest coastal sites. With a broad California appellation, the grapes can come from several areas, so expect a blended, house-style profile rather than a single-vineyard expression. Wines at this strength typically lead with red and dark cherry, raspberry and plum, with a rounder, softer mid-palate than a Burgundy-style Pinot. On the palate, expect medium to medium-plus body, silky tannins that stay in the background, and enough acidity to keep the fruit from feeling heavy. Pinot Noir of this kind often shows light baking-spice, tea leaf or vanilla from oak aging, and a gently warming finish of moderate length. The alcohol is noticeable more as weight and warmth than as heat, particularly when the wine is served too warm. Serve it at around 55 to 60°F, which is cellar temperature and a little cooler than most rooms. Thirty minutes in the refrigerator before opening usually gets a bottle there. It doesn't need decanting, though pouring it into a large glass and giving it ten or fifteen minutes lets the aromatics open. A Burgundy-style glass with a wide bowl and a tapered rim is the best choice, since it concentrates the red-fruit and floral notes and keeps the finish from tasting broad. At the table, the wine's soft tannin makes it easy to pair. Roast chicken, duck breast with a cherry or orange glaze, pan-seared salmon, mushroom risotto and herb-crusted pork loin all work. It also holds up against charcuterie, lentils and soft cheeses such as brie or Gruyère. Skip very spicy dishes and heavily charred red meat, which will flatten the fruit. This is a drink-now bottle meant for the next few years rather than long cellaring, and it is at its best while the fruit is still fresh and vivid.