Smith Hook Cabernet

Smith Hook Cabernet is a 750ml red from Esplanda, labeled as a Massachusetts wine from the United States. Massachusetts is a cool, Atlantic-influenced region, which is a different setting from the warm valleys behind most Cabernet Sauvignon. The label gives no tasting notes, so what follows is what Cabernet from a cooler climate usually does. Expect cassis, blackcurrant and dark plum, with a leafy or green-pepper edge. Bottles from cooler regions often carry less weight and alcohol than Napa or Paso Robles examples, and they usually keep brighter, firmer acidity. Cabernet's grippy tannin is the structural backbone of the grape, though the amount in this particular bottle isn't specified. If the wine saw oak, look for cedar, tobacco or light vanilla. Otherwise it should read as fruit-driven, with a medium to medium-plus finish. Cabernet's tannin and acidity make it a food wine. It suits grilled ribeye, lamb chops with rosemary, burgers with sharp cheddar, and braised short ribs, since the fat and protein soften the tannin. Mushroom dishes, roasted root vegetables and aged hard cheeses like Gouda or Manchego also work. Delicate fish and very spicy dishes tend to clash with a red of this type. Serve it slightly below room temperature, around 60 to 65°F (16 to 18°C). A short stretch in the refrigerator, about 20 minutes, brings a warm bottle into that range. Cabernet-based wines generally open up with air, so pour it into a decanter or a wide-bowled glass 30 to 60 minutes before serving. Leaner, cool-climate versions need less time than dense, extracted ones. A large Bordeaux-style glass with a tall bowl lets the aromas gather and directs the wine toward the center of the palate, which helps keep the tannin in balance. With no vintage or aging claim on the label, treat it as a bottle to drink over the next few years, not one to cellar for decades. Store it on its side in a cool, dark place until you open it.