The Hilt Chardonnay

The Hilt Chardonnay is a Massachusetts-grown white from Esplanda, made from Chardonnay in a cool-climate New England setting. The producer's details don't specify oak treatment, malolactic fermentation or ABV, so the notes below describe what Chardonnay from a cool Northeastern region usually shows. Expect green apple, pear and citrus, with perhaps a touch of stone fruit, and brisk, mouth-watering acidity. The Atlantic-influenced climate tends to produce a leaner, more savory style than warm-region Chardonnay. If this bottle saw oak or lees contact, look for a rounder texture and hints of vanilla, toast or hazelnut. If it was fermented in steel, the fruit will taste cleaner and sharper. Either way, Chardonnay has no tannin to speak of, so the structure comes from acidity and body. Expect a medium body and a finish of moderate length. This style suits seafood and richer white-meat dishes. Pan-seared scallops, baked cod with butter and lemon, and New England clam chowder are natural matches, since the wine's acidity cuts through cream and butter. Roast chicken with herbs, pork loin with apples, and lobster rolls also work well. Soft cheeses like brie or young Gruyère go well with a rounder, oaked version. For a leaner bottle, try fresh goat cheese or a simple dish of buttered corn and sweet shellfish. Serve it lightly chilled, around 45 to 50°F (7 to 10°C). That is a little warmer than a typical refrigerator, so take it out about 20 minutes before pouring. Fridge-cold temperatures mute the fruit and make the acidity feel sharper, while a warm bottle can make the wine seem heavy. Decanting isn't necessary for a Chardonnay like this, though a few minutes in the glass will open up the aromas. A white wine glass with a medium bowl and a slight taper toward the rim keeps the citrus and orchard-fruit notes concentrated. If the wine turns out to be oaked and fuller, a slightly wider bowl will give it more room. Treat it as a drink-now bottle. Cool-climate, regionally made Chardonnay is usually built for freshness, and the fruit and acidity are at their best in the first few years after release. Keep opened bottles corked in the refrigerator and finish them within three or four days.