The Villain

The Villain is a Merlot from Esplanda, labeled Massachusetts, United States. Merlot is the variety behind plush, rounded red wine, and that is the profile to expect here. Typical Merlot shows plum, black cherry and red currant, with softer notes of cocoa, dried herbs or baking spice if oak has been used. Tannins are usually supple rather than gripping, and the body sits at medium to medium-full. The producer's details don't state oak treatment, alcohol level or vintage, so check the bottle label for those. Merlot from a cooler New England growing region often runs a little brighter in acidity and more restrained in fruit than warm-climate examples, which makes it easier at the table. That softness makes it a flexible dinner red. Roast chicken, pork loin, meatloaf and burgers all suit it, as do mushroom dishes, baked pasta with tomato and sausage, and grilled vegetables. Medium-aged cheeses such as Gouda, cheddar or Gruyère work well. Be cautious with very spicy food and with delicate fish, because the wine's fruit and tannin will overpower both. Serve it slightly cool, around 60 to 65°F (16 to 18°C). Twenty minutes in the refrigerator before opening usually gets a room-temperature bottle there. Served too warm, Merlot tastes flabby and the alcohol becomes more noticeable. A medium-sized red wine glass with a gently tapered rim concentrates the fruit aromas without exaggerating any heat. Decanting isn't required for a wine of this style. If the first pour seems tight or closed, 20 to 30 minutes in a decanter or a wide glass will usually open it up. Plan to drink it fairly soon after purchase. Most Merlot at this level is made to be enjoyed within a few years of release rather than cellared for decades. Without a stated vintage or oak regime, treat it as a drink-now bottle. Once opened, recork it and keep it in a cool place. It should hold its character for two to three days.