Villasuso Mezcal

Villasuso is a mezcal, which means it is distilled from agave, and in most cases that agave is roasted before it's fermented. That roasting gives the category its signature: expect smoke, cooked agave sweetness and a savory, earthy edge, with the smoke varying a lot from one bottling to the next. The details we have don't list an age statement, ABV, agave species or distillery, so treat what follows as the typical profile for the style, not a measured description of this bottle. Mezcal uses a different aging vocabulary from tequila's, though it overlaps. A joven (unaged, like a blanco) keeps the roasted agave, smoke and any citrus, pepper or mineral notes in the foreground. Reposado spends a few months in oak, which softens the smoke and adds vanilla and light spice. Añejo and extra añejo spend a year or more in wood and move toward caramel and dried fruit, and the agave takes a back seat. If the label on your bottle says joven, blanco or abocado, expect the brighter, smokier end. If it carries a reposado or añejo designation, expect a rounder spirit. Neat is the best way to learn what Villasuso tastes like. Pour about an ounce or two into a caballito, a small copita or a tulip-shaped glass, and let it sit a minute so the smoke opens up. Serve it at room temperature, since chilling mutes the aromatics. Traditional pairings are orange slices dusted with sal de gusano, a salt blended with ground chile, or just a few segments of citrus between sips. Pairing it with grilled meats, charred vegetables, mole or aged cheese works because the smoke matches the char. In cocktails, mezcal's smoke does most of the work. A Margarita made with mezcal in place of tequila (fresh lime, orange liqueur, a salted or chile-salt rim) is the obvious starting point. A Paloma with grapefruit soda and lime lets the smoke cut through the citrus, and a mezcal Ranch Water with lime and sparkling mineral water over plenty of ice is lighter and more savory. Serve the Margarita and Paloma in a rocks or highball glass, and use a tall glass for the Ranch Water. Use a lighter hand if you want the agave to stay audible.