Contour Cabernet

This Cabernet Sauvignon from Contour carries a Massachusetts appellation, which already sets it apart from the California and Washington bottles that dominate the category. Cabernet is a late-ripening grape, and New England's shorter, cooler growing season usually gives it a lighter, more restrained build than warm-climate versions. The details on file don't include a vintage, ABV or tasting notes, so what follows describes how Cabernet from a cooler region typically behaves. Expect red and black currant, black cherry and plum, with a leafy or herbal edge such as bell pepper or cedar. Body is usually medium to medium-full, with firm but approachable tannin, brisk acidity and a moderate finish. Oak is the other variable. Cabernet is often aged in barrel, which adds vanilla, toasted spice and a little smoke, but the label details here don't say how this bottle was handled. If you see those notes in the glass, that is the oak. If the fruit is brighter and cleaner, the wine probably saw less of it. The acidity in cooler-climate Cabernet makes it more food-friendly than the plush, high-alcohol style, since it cuts through fat and doesn't flatten lighter dishes. For the table, grilled or pan-seared steak, lamb chops with rosemary and braised short ribs are the classic matches, because protein and fat soften the tannin. Burgers with aged cheddar, mushroom dishes, roasted root vegetables and hard, nutty cheeses like Gruyère or aged Gouda also work. Tomato-based pasta with sausage handles the acidity well. Avoid delicate fish or heavily spiced dishes, which the tannin tends to overpower. Serve it at about 60 to 65°F, which is a little below room temperature. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator before opening is usually enough. If the wine tastes tight or the tannin feels grippy when first poured, decant it for 30 to 60 minutes or let it breathe in a large glass. Use a large-bowled Bordeaux-style glass with a tall shape, which gives the aromas room to open and directs the wine toward the center of the palate. Without a vintage or producer notes, treat this as a bottle for drinking within a few years of purchase. Most regional Cabernet is made for near-term enjoyment rather than long cellaring.