Belle Glos Dairyman

Dairyman is a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from Belle Glos, bottled at 14.5% ABV. That alcohol level places it at the fuller, riper end of California Pinot, and the region's warm-day, cool-night pattern is why wines from here tend to carry more concentration than their Burgundian or Sonoma Coast counterparts. Expect dark cherry and black plum rather than the tart red fruit of cooler sites, with notes of cola, baking spice and a little earthy forest floor in the background. Pinot is a thin-skinned grape, so tannins are typically soft and fine-grained even in a richer style like this, and the weight comes from fruit and alcohol more than from grip. On the palate, anticipate a medium-plus to full body for the variety, a plush texture and enough acidity to keep the dark fruit from feeling heavy. Oak is usually part of the picture at this ripeness level, adding vanilla, toast or a hint of sweet spice that rounds the mid-palate, and the finish tends to run long and warm rather than crisp. If you prefer the lean, high-acid side of California Pinot, this sits on the opposite end of that spectrum, and that is worth knowing before you buy. At the table, a wine of this weight handles dishes that would overwhelm a lighter Pinot. Roast duck with cherry or fig sauce, pork tenderloin with a mustard crust, mushroom risotto, grilled salmon with a charred edge, and seared lamb chops all suit the dark fruit and gentle tannin. Aged Gruyère and other nutty, semi-hard cheeses work well on a board, while very spicy or heavily sweet dishes will make the alcohol more noticeable. Serve it slightly cooler than room temperature, around 60 to 65°F, which keeps the 14.5% alcohol in check and lets the fruit show. Thirty minutes in the refrigerator before opening usually gets a warm bottle into range. A short decant of 20 to 30 minutes is optional but can open up the aromatics; there is no need for long aeration. Use a large-bowled Burgundy-style glass with a wide belly to gather the aroma. This is a bottle designed for drinking in its youth, though a few years of cellaring is reasonable if you enjoy the savory notes that develop with time.