Dassai 39 Sake

Dassai 39 is a sake, a brewed rice drink rather than a grape wine, and the "39" in the name conventionally refers to the percentage of each rice grain left after milling. A figure that low points to the premium polished-rice tier, usually labeled junmai daiginjo, though you should check the bottle's label for the exact classification. Sakes milled this far tend to be clean and delicate. Expect aromas of melon, pear, white peach or green apple, sometimes with a faint floral lift. The texture is usually smooth and light to medium in body. There is no tannin or oak to speak of. Acidity is soft and gentle, and the finish is clean, quiet and slightly sweet-leaning without tasting sugary. Serve it chilled, roughly 7 to 12°C (45 to 54°F). Straight from the refrigerator it can taste muted, so give it ten minutes in the glass. Warming is not recommended for this style, because heat flattens the fruit and floral aromatics that the heavy milling is meant to preserve. Decanting is unnecessary. A wine glass with a modest bowl, or a tulip-shaped white wine glass, concentrates the delicate aromas better than a small ceramic cup or a masu box. The light structure suits food with subtle flavors. Sashimi, nigiri, scallops, steamed or poached white fish, tofu, and cucumber or daikon salads all let the sake's fruit come through. Lightly salted dishes such as tempura with a pinch of salt, or soft cheeses like fresh mozzarella and chèvre, also work. Heavily spiced, smoky or deeply sauced dishes will overpower it. A good alternative is to sip it alone as an aperitif. This is a drink-soon bottle. Premium sake is not meant for cellaring and is at its freshest in the months after bottling. Store it upright in the refrigerator or somewhere cool and dark, away from light and heat. Once opened, reseal it, keep it cold, and finish it within a few days to a week, since the aromatics fade quickly with air exposure.