Kisi-Khikhvi Amber Wine

Kisi and Khikhvi are two white grapes native to Georgia in the Caucasus. This bottle is an amber wine, meaning white grapes fermented in contact with their skins, made by Esplanda in Massachusetts. The producer's details don't include vintage, alcohol level or vessel, so what follows describes how Kisi and Khikhvi amber wines usually taste, not a measured profile of this bottle. Skin contact typically gives a deep gold to burnished orange color. Expect dried apricot, quince, orange peel and tea leaf, with a nutty or honeyed edge and a floral lift. Kisi is often the more aromatic of the pair, and Khikhvi tends to add firmness and structure. Styles like this usually have a medium to full body, noticeably more texture than an ordinary white, and gentle grippy tannin from the skins. Acidity generally stays fresh enough to keep the wine from feeling heavy. Oak is not a defining feature of the style, and any savory, spicy or tannic notes come mostly from the grape skins. The finish is typically dry and slightly bitter in the way of orange pith or black tea, and it lingers. Serve it cool but not cold, around 12 to 14°C (54 to 57°F). Fridge temperature mutes the aromatics and exaggerates the tannin. Pulling the bottle about 20 minutes before pouring is enough. Decanting isn't required, though 15 to 30 minutes of air can open up the nose, especially if the wine seems closed at first. A medium white wine glass or a universal tulip-shaped glass works well, because the wider bowl gives the aromas room. At the table, amber wines suit food that white wine alone can overpower. Roasted chicken or pork, dishes with walnuts or pomegranate, aged and washed-rind cheeses, mushroom dishes, and spiced or slow-cooked vegetables all pair well. The tannin and acidity also stand up to cumin- and coriander-driven cooking. This is generally a bottle to open within a few years, though skin-contact whites often hold their character for a while if stored cool and on their side. Without a stated vintage or producer cellaring guidance, treat it as drink-now.