Choya Kokuto Umeshu

CHOYA Kokuto Umeshu is a Japanese plum liqueur-style wine made from ume fruit and sweetened with kokuto, the unrefined Okinawan black sugar, rather than the refined white sugar found in many umeshu. The listing places it in Osaka and gives its strength as 14.5% ABV, which is a little above the 10 to 13 percent range of a typical umeshu. Kokuto sugar usually brings molasses, caramel and light smoky-mineral notes, so expect a deeper amber colour and a rounder, darker sweetness than a standard umeshu, with the tartness of the plums running underneath it. On the palate, styles like this are generally sweet and syrupy in body, with ripe plum and apricot-like fruit, a gentle bitter-almond edge from the ume stones, and brown-sugar richness through the middle. There is no tannin and no oak to speak of. Acidity from the plums keeps the sweetness from turning cloying, and the finish tends to be long, warm and softly toasty. It is a sweet, aromatic drink, so small pours go a long way. For serving, it is most flexible chilled or over a large block of ice, which tightens the sweetness and brings the plum acidity forward. Neat at cool room temperature the kokuto character is more pronounced. It can also be topped with soda water for a lighter highball-style drink, or with a small measure of hot water in cold weather. No decanting is needed. A small wine glass, a rocks glass or a sake cup all work, and a tulip-shaped glass will concentrate the aroma best when sipped neat. At the table, it suits salty and rich foods well: aged hard cheeses, blue cheese, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, vanilla ice cream, or a plate of dried fruit. It also sits comfortably next to fatty grilled pork or duck, where the sweetness acts as a counterpoint. It is made to be enjoyed now rather than cellared. Once opened, keep it sealed and cold, and finish it within a few months for the best aroma.