90+ Cellars Lambrusco 172

Lambrusco 172 is a sparkling red from 90+ Cellars, labeled with the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro name and a California appellation, at a low 8% alcohol by volume. Grasparossa is the Lambrusco grape known for deep color and firmer structure than its lighter cousins, so expect a ruby-to-purple pour with a pink-tinged foam. Styles like this usually lean on dark red and black fruit, such as blackberry, black cherry and plum, often with a floral or violet edge. Bubbles are typically fine to medium, and the body stays light to medium. The low alcohol usually goes with some residual sweetness, though bottlings vary from off-dry to nearly dry. The structure is what separates a wine like this from a simple fizzy red. Grasparossa tends to bring gentle grip, more tannin than most sparkling wines carry, and the bubbles and bright acidity cut through that. Oak is rarely a factor in this style, so expect fruit and freshness rather than vanilla or spice. The finish is generally short to medium and clean, with a faint bitter-cherry note in drier versions. If the tannin and the sweetness land in balance, the wine stays refreshing and doesn't turn syrupy. At the table, the usual Lambrusco logic applies. Fat, salt and richness are what this wine is made for, so think pepperoni or sausage pizza, charcuterie and cured meats, aged hard cheeses, burgers, bratwurst, barbecue ribs and baked pasta with a meat ragù. The fizz and fruit also help with moderately spicy dishes and tomato-based sauces, where a heavier red can taste flat or too tannic. If the bottle turns out on the sweeter side, a salty ham or a rind-washed cheese will balance it. Serve it chilled, around 50 to 55°F. That is cooler than a still red but not as cold as a white sparkler, and about 90 minutes in the refrigerator or 20 to 30 minutes in an ice bath should get it there. Don't decant it, because you'd lose the bubbles that give the wine its lift. A standard white-wine glass or a small tulip-shaped flute lets the berry aromas open up while keeping the mousse intact, and a wide coupe will let the fizz fade quickly. Wines in this style are made for drinking young. Plan to open the bottle within a year or so of purchase, and don't cellar it for aging.