J Vineyards Pinot Gris

J Vineyards' Pinot Gris is a California-appellation white that carries 13.8% alcohol, a little higher than many Pinot Grigio bottlings and a good indicator of the fuller style the Gris name usually signals. The grape is the same one sold in Italy as Pinot Grigio, but American Pinot Gris tends to be rounder and more textured, with more weight on the palate than the lean, quick-finishing Italian style. Expect ripe orchard and stone fruit such as pear, white peach and apple, and possibly a touch of citrus zest or melon. Styles like this are typically unoaked or only lightly oaked, with a gently viscous mid-palate, moderate acidity and a clean, medium-length finish. Tannin is essentially absent, as in most white wines. That fuller body is what shapes the food pairings. The wine is sturdy enough for creamy sauces and richer fish, so salmon, whether pan-seared or baked with butter and herbs, suits it well. It also handles shellfish in cream, crab cakes, or a chicken dish built around lemon and white wine. For lighter, more raw preparations, ceviche and sashimi work because the wine's fruit and acidity cut through the oils without overwhelming delicate fish. Soft cheeses, such as brie or fresh goat cheese, and spring vegetables like asparagus or peas are good vegetarian partners. Serve it chilled, roughly 7 to 10 degrees Celsius (45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit), which keeps the fruit lively without muting the aromas. Fridge-cold straight from the shelf is a little too cold for a wine of this weight; about twenty minutes at room temperature helps the pear and peach notes open up. No decanting is needed. A standard white wine glass with a moderately tapered bowl will concentrate the aromatics without exaggerating the alcohol. This is a bottle for drinking now rather than cellaring. Most California Pinot Gris is made for freshness and fruit, and it is usually at its best within a few years of release, so there is no reason to hold it for improvement.