Ruffino Riserva Ducale

Listed as an Italian red, Ruffino Res Ducale Tan is a bottle where the style tells you more than the label details do. The name points to the Riserva Ducale line, which is usually built on Sangiovese, so expect that grape's profile: red cherry and dried plum fruit, a savory edge of dried herbs and tomato leaf, and some leather or tea-like notes. A wine in this style is typically medium to full in body, with firm but fine-grained tannin and the bright, mouth-watering acidity that defines Tuscan-style reds. Riserva wines of this type are usually matured in oak, so look for gentle spice and a hint of vanilla in support of the fruit, with a dry, moderately long finish. That acidity is why it works at the table. Tomato-based dishes, such as baked pasta, lasagne, or pizza with sausage, suit it well. So do roast chicken or pork with rosemary, grilled sausages, mushroom risotto, and hard aged cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino. The tannin also handles a grilled steak, but it will feel a little austere with delicate fish or cream sauces. Serve it at about 60 to 65°F, which is slightly below room temperature. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator before opening usually gets a warm bottle to that range. If the wine seems tight when first poured, 30 to 45 minutes in a decanter, or simply in the glass, will soften the tannin and bring out more fruit. A medium-sized glass with a wide bowl and a slightly tapered rim gathers the aromas without exaggerating the alcohol. Wines of this style are generally approachable on release but can hold for several years in a cool, dark place, laid on their side. For drinking now, decant it and match it with a hearty meal. For cellaring, let the tannin settle and the savory notes deepen, and check it every year or so to decide when it is at its best.